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Vietnam War anniversary: US officers who broke rank to save lives recall the fall of Saigon 50 years ago

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CNN
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As servicemen aboard the US Navy aircraft carrier dumped millions of dollars of military hardware into the South China Sea, the commander chose not to watch.

Capt. Larry Chambers knew his order to push helicopters off the flight deck of the USS Midway could cost him his military career, but it was a chance he was willing to take.

Above his head, a South Vietnamese air force major, Buang-Ly, was circling the carrier in a tiny airplane with his wife and five children aboard and needed space to land.

It was April 29, 1975. To the west of where the Midway was operating, communist North Vietnamese forces were closing in for the capture of Saigon, the capital of South Vietnam, which the US had supported for more than a decade.

Buang feared his family would pay a terrible price if captured by the communists. So, he jammed his family aboard the single-engine Cessna Bird Dog he found on minor airstrip near Saigon, headed out to sea – and hoped.

And luckily Buang ran into another “idiot,” as Chambers puts it.

“I figured, well, if he’s brave enough or dumb enough to come out and think some other idiot is going to clear the deck (of a US Navy aircraft carrier) of a whole bunch of helicopters to give him a personal runway to land on …” Chambers told CNN, with a chuckle and a scratch of his head as if still not believing the crazy episode.

The Midway’s deck was crowded with helicopters that Tuesday because it was assisting in Operation Frequent Wind, the helicopter evacuation of Saigon.

South Vietnamese refugees arrive aboard the USS Midway, April 29, 1975.

Some 7,000 South Vietnamese and Americans would make their way onto US Navy ships on April 29 and 30 in frenzied escapes from Saigon. Some 2,000 of them found their way onto Midway. But few could rival the drama of the family of seven in that two-seat Cessna.

Buang had no radio and so the only way to let the captain of the Midway know he needed help was to drop a handwritten note onto its deck as he flew overhead.

Several attempts failed before finally one found its mark.

“Can you mouve [sic] these Helicopter to the other side, I can land on your runway, I can fly 1 hour more, we have enough time to mouve. Please rescue me, Major Buang wife and 5 child,” it read.

Capt. Chambers had a choice to make: clear the deck as Buang requested; or let him ditch in the ocean. He knew the aircraft, with its fixed landing gear, would flip over once it hit the water. Even if it held together, flipping would doom the family to drowning.

He couldn’t let that happen, he said, even though his superiors did not want the small aircraft to land on the carrier.

Neither did the Midway’s air boss, who ran flight deck operations.

“When I told the air boss we’re going to make a ready deck (for the small plane), the words he had to say to me I wouldn’t want to print,” Chambers said.

Chambers said he ordered all of the ship’s 2,000-person air wing up to the deck to prepare to receive the small plane and turned his ship into the wind to make a landing possible.

Crewmen pushed helicopters – worth $30 million by some accounts – off the deck. American, South Vietnamese, even CIA choppers splashed into the waves.

Chambers still doesn’t know exactly how many. “In the middle of chaos, nobody was counting,” he said.

And he wasn’t looking.

Because he was disobeying the orders of his superiors in the US fleet, he knew his decision could land him a punishment that included being kicked out of the Navy.

“I knew that I was going to have to face a (court martial) board. And I wanted to be able to say, even with the lie detector, that I didn’t know how many we actually pushed over the side,” Chambers told CNN, explaining his decision not watch as his orders were executed.

“So that was my defense. It was kind of a stupid idea at the time, but at least it gave me the confidence to go ahead and do it.”

With enough space cleared, Buang touched down on the Midway. Crewman grabbed onto the light plane with their bare hands to make sure it wasn’t blown off the deck in the strong winds coming across it. The rest of the crew cheered.

The O-1 Bird Dog flown by Major Buang-Ly lands aboard the USS Midway.

“He’s probably the bravest son of a bitch I’ve run into in my whole life,” said of Buang, adding that the South Vietnamese pilot was trying save his family by landing on an aircraft carrier – something he’d never done before – in a plane not designed for that.

“I was just clearing the runway for him … that’s all you can do.”

And life came before hardware, he said.

“We do the best we can saving human lives. That’s the only thing you can do.”

Major Buang-Ly and his family on the USS Midway on April 29, 1975.

The fall of Saigon brought the final curtain down on a grinding conflict that unleashed devastation across the region, cost more than 58,000 American and millions of Vietnamese lives, saw the might of US military power fought to a bloody stalemate and triggered huge social unrest at home.

The 50th anniversary on Wednesday will trigger complex and mixed emotions for those who lived through it.

For Vietnam’s government, still run by the same Communist Party that swept to victory, it will be a week of huge parades and celebrations, officially known as “Liberation of the South and National Reunification Day.” For those South Vietnamese who had to flee, many of whom settled in the US, the anniversary has long been dubbed “Black April.”

For US veterans, it will once again raise the age-old question – what was it all for?

Chaos ruled Saigon in the last week of April 1975.

Though more than a decade of US military involvement in the Vietnam War had officially ended with the signing of the Paris Peace Accords with North Vietnam in January 1973, the deal didn’t guarantee an independent state in the South.

The administration of US President Richard Nixon had pledged to keep up military aid for the government in Saigon, but it was a hollow promise that would not last into the era of his successor Gerald Ford. Americans, tired of a divisive war that had cost so many lives and hundreds of billions in taxpayer dollars, were broadly unsupportive of the South Vietnamese regime.

In early March 1975, North Vietnam launched an offensive into the South that its leaders expected would lead to the capture of Saigon in about two years. Victory would come in two months.

Refugees cling to a Chinook helicopter taking off after a supply drop to troops along Highway One, about 38 miles northeast of Saigon, April 14, 1975.

On April 28, North Vietnamese forces attacked Tan Son Nhut Air Base in Saigon, making an evacuation by airplane impossible. There was no other place in the city that could handle large aircraft.

With helicopter evacuation the only option, Washington launched Operation Frequent Wind.

When Bing Crosby’s seasonal classic “White Christmas” played over the radio, that was the signal for Americans and select Vietnamese civilians to go to designated pickup spots to be airlifted out of the city.

More than 100 helicopters, operated by the US Marine Corps, the US Air Force and the CIA, would deliver evacuees to US Navy ships waiting offshore.

By command of the president (not really)

While Capt. Chambers was making command decisions at sea, American helicopter pilots were doing so above Saigon.

Marine Corps Maj. Gerry Berry flew from a US ship offshore to Saigon 14 times during the evacuation, the last of those flights marking the official end of the US presence in South Vietnam.

But getting to that point wasn’t straightforward.

Berry, the pilot of a twin-rotor CH-46 Sea Knight helicopter, got orders on the afternoon of April 29 to fly to the US Embassy in Saigon and get Ambassador Graham Martin out.

But nobody seemed to have told Martin or the US Marines guarding the embassy.

Upon touchdown, when he told the guards he was there to pick up the ambassador, they ushered about 70 Vietnamese evacuees aboard the aircraft instead, he said.

Subsequent flights from an offshore US Navy ship were greeted with more and more evacuees – and no US envoy.

Civilian evacuees board US Marine helicopter inside US Embassy compound to be helilifted to the US Seventh Fleet ahead of Communist troops about to enter Saigon on the last day of the Vietnam War, April 30, 1975.

With each flight to and from the embassy, Berry could see the crowds outside the it growing – and North Vietnamese forces drawing closer.

“I remember thinking at the time, ‘Well, we can’t finish this,’” he told CNN.

But he knew someone had to take charge, to at least get the ambassador out.

Around 4 a.m., he could see the North Vietnamese forces closing on the embassy.

“The tanks were coming down the road. We could see them. The ambassador was still in there,” he said.

Landing on the roof, the Sea Knight took on another stream of evacuees – and no Ambassador Martin.

Berry called a Marine guard sergeant over to the cockpit – and told him he had direct orders from President Ford for the ambassador to get on the helicopter.

“I had no authorization to do that,” Berry said. But he knew time was short, and his frustration at making this trip more than a dozen times was boiling over.

“I basically ordered him out, when I said in my best aviator voice, ‘The president sends. You have got to go now,’” using military terminology for how an order is handed down.

He said Martin seemed happy to finally get a direct order, even if it came from a Marine pilot.

“It looked like an Olympic sprint team getting on that (aircraft). So you know, I’ve always said that all he wanted to do was be ordered out by somebody,” Berry said.

With the envoy aboard, the Sea Knight headed out to the USS Blue Ridge, ending Berry’s 14th flight of Operation Frequent Wind, some 18 hours after he started.

Hours later North Vietnamese tanks would break through the gates of the South Vietnamese presidential palace, not far from the US Embassy. The Vietnam War was over.

Berry and Chambers were both officers who had to make decisions – outside or against the chain of command – that saved lives during the fall of Saigon, which was soon renamed Ho Chi Minh City by the victorious North Vietnamese.

And Chambers says it is a quality that sets the US military apart from its adversaries to this day.

“We have young kids … taught initiative to do things and to take responsibility, unlike some of the other militaries where the commissar, or whoever it is,” looms over every decision, Chambers said.

“We want everybody to think, and everybody to act,” said Chambers, who as a Black man was the first person of color to command a US Navy aircraft carrier.

“You’ve got to be the guy in charge. You can’t run things all the way up through the Pentagon every time you have to do something,” Berry said.

Chambers never faced any disciplinary action for his decisions aboard the Midway off Saigon. He’s not sure if that’s because the Midway wasn’t the only ship dumping helicopters overboard that day or because he was quickly dispatched on another rescue mission.

And it certainly didn’t hurt his naval career. Two years after dumping those helicopters into the sea, he was promoted to rear admiral.

Pilot Berry, who also served a combat tour in Vietnam in 1969 and ’70, is also left with sadness at the war’s futility.

“I hate to think all those deaths were for naught, the 58,400,” he said.

“What did we gain by all that, you know? And we killed more than a million Vietnamese.”

“Those people not only lost that life, but they lost the life where they would have had families and all those things,” Berry said.

Retired Marine Col. Gerry Berry, the pilot responsible for evacuating the ambassador of Vietnam during the fall of Saigon in 1975, stands with Quang Pham, a refugee that flew out of Vietnam on Berry's helicopter when he was 9 years old and later an HMM-165 pilot himself, pose in front of a CH-46 helicopter at the Flying Leatherneck Aviation Museum on April 30, 2010. The ceremony was an unveiling of the helicopter Berry flew during the evacuation mission in 1975.

As the 50th anniversary of his evacuation flights neared, Berry, now 80, was asked how long Americans would remember the Fall of Saigon, which brought to a close one of the US military’s greatest failures.

“With the number of lives we lost… it can’t be called a victory. It just can’t be,” Berry said.

But Vietnam also provides lessons 50 years later about keeping your trust with allies and friends, like NATO and Ukraine, he said.

“We had all that promised aid for South Vietnam that never came after the final assault” began in March 1975, he said.

“We never, never delivered.

“You promise something, you should follow through.”



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CIA rolls out sleek new videos aimed at recruiting Chinese officials

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Hong Kong
CNN
 — 

The CIA has released a pair of new videos aimed at luring Chinese officials to spy for the United States, tapping into disillusion within China’s vast bureaucracy and fear of leader Xi Jinping’s relentless anti-corruption purge.

The sleekly produced clips, filmed in Mandarin with Chinese subtitles, are the latest effort by the US spy agency to ramp up intelligence gathering on China, viewed by successive administrations as the top strategic rival and military threat to America.

China’s intelligence agency has also launched a very public campaign on social media over the last two years warning its citizens against spying for foreign nations and to keep a watchful eye out for espionage attempts.

John Ratcliffe, the CIA director, has pledged to make the threat posed by China a top priority and vowed to expand the agency’s focus on Beijing.

Last October, the CIA released a text video with step-by-step instructions in Chinese on how to securely contact the agency online. It was part of a broader drive to recruit new informants in China, Iran and North Korea.

The latest videos, posted on the CIA’s social media accounts, are much sleeker than last year’s production. Each running more than 2 minutes long, they come in the style of mini-movies, complete with plot lines, narration and suspenseful background music.

One video aims to appeal to senior Communist Party officials who live in perpetual fear of being snapped up by Xi’s seemingly endless crackdown on corruption and disloyalty. The campaign has punished millions of high-flying officials and low-ranking cadres alike, shaking government agencies, the military and state-owned companies.

“As I rise within the party, I watch those above me get discarded like worn-out shoes, one after another. But now, I realize that my fate is just as precarious as theirs,” the narrator says, as a Chinese official and his wife walk into a lavish dinner with Chinese government agents tailing him.

“It’s all too common for someone to suddenly vanish without a trace. What I fear most is that my family’s fate is tied to my own. I must prepare an escape route,” he says, while the camera pans to two empty seats at the dinner table.

The other video taps into a growing sense of disenchantment among young people in China. As the economy slows, some have come to realize that no matter how hard or long they work, the lives of the privileged, wealthy, and powerful remain out of reach.

It features a young government worker growing disillusioned with his career and life as he attends to a boss who lives a life of luxury fitted out in tailor-made suits and expensive watches.

He attends grueling political self-criticism sessions, eats meager takeout lunches, stays late to work on government reports and returns to a small apartment where he lives with his parents.

“From a young age, the party taught us that as long as we diligently followed the path laid out by our leaders, we would have a bright future. The sky that was meant to be shared by all is now enjoyed by only a few, leaving me no choice but to forge my own path,” he says. “I refused to lie flat!”

Both videos end with scenes of the protagonists contacting the CIA on the agency’s website: the senior party official is relieved that no matter what the future holds for him, his family can still enjoy a good life; the young government worker is excited about taking the first step toward building his own dream.

In the final scene of the video, a Chinese government worker contacts the CIA.

Authorities in China, which is in the middle of a five-day holiday, have not responded to the CIA videos. CNN has reached out to the Chinese Foreign Ministry for comment.

The CIA is confident that the videos are penetrating China’s “Great Firewall” of internet censorship and reaching the intended audience, Reuters reported.

“If it weren’t working, we wouldn’t be making more videos,” a CIA official told Reuters, adding that China was the agency’s foremost intelligence priority in a “truly generational competition” between the US and China.

By Friday afternoon, China’s state-controlled media had not reported on the videos, though they have caught limited attention on the country’s highly regulated social media. A few posts have mentioned the videos in writing, with one sharing screenshots. But the videos themselves have so far not been widely shared.

“The content of the videos is utterly ridiculous, and of course they can’t be posted (here),” read a Weibo post with 300 likes.

Another user wrote: “Their ulterior motives are self-evident. Since the US can’t shake us with its trade war, they’re trying to undermine us from within. The imperialists never stop scheming against China. We must stay united!”

The CIA’s publicity campaign on China comes as Beijing’s own spy agency has drastically raised its public profile in recent years. The once notoriously secretive Ministry of State Security now commands a massive following on Chinese social media, with near-daily commentaries, short videos or even comic strips sounding the alarm about supposedly ubiquitous threats to the country.

Last year, when the CIA’s former chief Bill Burns revealed in an article in Foreign Affairs magazine that the agency had allocated more funding and resources to gather intelligence on China and recruit more Chinese speakers, a spokesperson for China’s Foreign Ministry thanked him for reminding everyone that, “American spies are everywhere and infiltrating everything.”



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Paul Chambers: Prosecutors in Thailand drop royal defamation case against US scholar

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Bangkok
CNN
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State prosecutors in Thailand announced Thursday that they don’t intend to press charges against an American academic arrested for royal defamation, an offense punishable by up to 15 years in prison.

The arrest last month of Paul Chambers, a political science lecturer at Naresuan University in the northern province of Phitsanulok, had drawn concern from the academic community, especially from Asian studies scholars around the world, as well as the US government

The decision not to prosecute the 58-year-old Oklahoma native doesn’t immediately clear him of the charge of insulting the monarchy— also known as “lèse majesté” — or a related charge of violating the Computer Crime Act, which covers online activities.

The announcement said that the Phitsanulok provincial prosecutor will request the provincial court to drop the charges and forward the case file and nonprosecution order to the commissioner of Provincial Police Region 6, covering Phitsanulok, who may review and contest the decision.

Chambers, a 58-year-old Oklahoma native with a doctorate in political science from Northern Illinois University, was arrested in early April on a complaint made by the northern regional office of the army’s Internal Security Operations Command.

He has studied the power and influence of the Thai military, which plays a major role in politics. It has staged 13 coups since Thailand became a constitutional monarchy in 1932, most recently 11 years ago.

The army’s Internal Security Operations Command told a parliamentary inquiry that it filed the complaint based on a Facebook post that translated words from a website operated by ISEAS–Yusof Ishak Institute, a think tank in Singapore, about a webinar on Thai politics that included Chambers as a participant.

Chambers’ supporters said that the blurb for the webinar, which was cited in his charge sheet as evidence, wasn’t written by him.

He had been jailed in April for two nights after reporting himself to the Phitsanulok police, and then granted release on bail, with several conditions, including wearing an ankle monitor. A court on Tuesday allowed him to take off the device.

Chambers’ visa was revoked at the time of his arrest on the basis of an immigration law barring entry to foreigners who are deemed likely to engage in activities contrary to public order or good morals, prostitution, people smuggling and drug trafficking. It wasn’t immediately clear whether the revocation will stand.

“This case reinforces our longstanding concerns about the use of lèse majesté laws in Thailand,” a US State Department statement said after Chambers’ arrest. ”We continue to urge Thai authorities to respect freedom of expression and to ensure that laws are not used to stifle permitted expression.”

Thailand’s lèse majesté law calls for three to 15 years imprisonment for anyone who defames, insults or threatens the king, the queen, the heir apparent or the regent. Critics say it’s among the harshest such laws anywhere and also has been used to punish critics of the government and the military.

The monarchy has long been considered a pillar of Thai society and criticizing it used to be strictly taboo. Conservative Thais, especially in the military and courts, still consider it untouchable.

However, public debate on the topic has grown louder in the past decade, particularly among young people, and student-led pro-democracy protests starting in 2020 began openly criticizing the institution.

That led to vigorous prosecutions under the previously little-used law. The legal aid group Thai Lawyers for Human Rights has said that since early 2020, more than 270 people — many of them student activists — have been charged with violating the law.



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Letter from Tibet: A breathtaking journey through the tightly guarded spiritual heartland

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Lhasa, Tibet
CNN
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A “no photograph upon landing” announcement punctured the serene silence of the cabin as I gazed at the snow-capped peaks outside our airplane window, a stark reminder that we were entering a land of profound beauty and immense political sensitivity.

Our Air China flight from Beijing carried not just my cameraman and me, but also about two dozen other foreign journalists, all accompanied by a team of Chinese officials. We were headed to Tibet, a place where access is as guarded as its ancient treasures.

We usually avoid government-organized media tours, wary of the predictable agendas and restrictions. Yet, for Tibet, there is no alternative.

The Tibetan Autonomous Region remains the only place in China where all foreigners – especially foreign journalists – are barred entry without prior authorization.

Our requests to report from the ground have mostly been met with polite, but firm denials – including in January, when a powerful earthquake struck the region, killing more than 120 people.

For centuries, Tibet was mostly independent from China – with the Tibetans possessing ethnic, linguistic and religious identities starkly different from those of the Han Chinese. On a few occasions in history, Tibet fell under the rule of emperors in Beijing, most recently during the Qing dynasty starting in the 18th Century. After the 1912 collapse of Qing, China’s last imperial dynasty, Tibet enjoyed de facto independence though it was never recognized by China or much of the international community.

The Communist forces, emerging victorious from a bloody Chinese civil war, marched into Tibet in 1950 and formally annexed it into the newly founded People’s Republic of China the following year. Beijing has maintained a tight grip on the Himalayan region since the 14th Dalai Lama, Tibet’s spiritual leader, fled to India in 1959 after a failed uprising against Chinese rule. In the decades since, the Communist Party has swiftly cracked down on any unrest and enforced policies that critics say are intended to weaken the Tibetan identity.

Landing in late March at Gonggar Airport, one of the world’s highest at nearly 12,000 feet, just outside the Tibetan capital Lhasa, the thin air was an immediate signal to slow down as breathing grew labored and a headache began to develop. Stepping into Tibet, long known as “the roof of the world,” was an immersion into a different rhythm of life, dictated by the altitude’s power.

It had been 16 years since my last visit, a journey cut short by altitude sickness. This time, armed with ibuprofen, I was determined to document the changes that had swept through Tibet – or rather, “Xizang,” the new official English name adopted by authorities and indicated in our schedule. The moniker – transliterated from the Chinese name for the region – is a linguistic battleground reflecting deeper geopolitical tensions between Beijing and critics of its Tibet policy.

En route from the gleaming airport terminal to our hotel in Lhasa, the nearly empty freeway and unoccupied high-rise apartments spoke to China’s massive investments in developing infrastructure in Tibet. The region is still the country’s poorest with the lowest life expectancy.

Imposing portraits of China’s top leader Xi Jinping, alongside another picture featuring him and his four predecessors, dotted the highway and adorned almost every public building, an omnipresent emphasis on loyalty to the ruling Communist Party.

This overt display echoed the main themes – ethnic harmony and common prosperity – reinforced on every foreign media trip to Tibet, ours included. The weeklong itinerary was a curated mix: a high-profile press conference (on human rights achievements in Tibet), economic success stories (at, among others, the “world’s highest cookware factory”), tourist hotspots (ranging from yak farms to peach blossom fields) and cultural spectacles (culminating in a lavishly produced outdoor musical retelling the saga of the most famous Chinese-Tibetan royal marriage in the 7th Century).

On the streets of Lhasa, banners and posters celebrated the 66th anniversary of the “liberation of a million Tibetans from feudal serfdom” – the official description of pre-Communist-takeover Tibet.

Perhaps due to the controlled access to Tibet and China’s extensive high-tech surveillance network, I didn’t notice visible heavy security – even around temples and other sensitive sites.

A banner promoting patriotic education on the bustling Barkhor Street in Lhasa, where shops stand next to a police station.
Huge portraits of Chinese leader Xi Jinping adorn the windows of a nursing home in Lhasa, the Tibetan capital.
Tourists flock to the bustling Barkhor Street in Lhasa, the Tibetan capital.

The region hasn’t seen any major unrest in more than a decade. The last flareup in the early 2010s involved a string of self-immolation incidents that critics called a desperate cry against the Chinese government’s ever-tightening grip on Tibetan society.

Since then, Tibet has seen an unprecedented surge in tourism, predominantly from mainland China with visitors flocking to the region for spiritual exploration. A record 64 million people visited Tibet in 2024, according to government records – a more than tenfold increase from the roughly 6 million visitors in 2010.

Although March wasn’t peak season for Tibet travel, domestic visitors crowded tourist attractions. Clad in traditional local costumes and posing on Lhasa’s bustling centuries-old Barkhor Street, Chinese tourists often seemed to outnumber Tibetan pilgrims, who prostrated themselves on the stone ground and walked clockwise around temples while spinning hand-held prayer wheels – under the curious gaze of selfie stick-wielding onlookers.

If not for the picture-perfect backdrop of golden roofs of Buddhist temples – surrounded by majestic mountains and glistening in abundant sunshine – Lhasa could sometimes look like just another small city in China, especially outside its historical center.

Alongside gift shops and supermarkets, Sichuan restaurants dotted almost every street corner – a testament to the popularity of the Chinese cuisine as much as the main origin of Han migration from the neighboring province into Tibet – long said to be a source of tension between the two ethnic groups over perceived economic inequality.

A smattering of foreign tourists had also reappeared following the post-pandemic re-opening of Tibet, including a group at our hotel, an InterContinental property. Western brands – from major hotels to fast-food chains – appear to operate in Tibet without notable protests or criticisms of the past.

The undisputed top tourist attraction in Lhasa remains the Potala Palace, the former winter residence of the Dalai Lamas, spiritual leaders of Tibetan Buddhism, until the current holder of that position was forced into exile.

Now living in Dharamsala, India, and revered globally as a Nobel peace laureate, the 14th Dalai Lama is labeled by the Chinese government as a “wolf in monk’s robes” and an “anti-China separatist” – despite his declaration that he seeks only genuine autonomy, not independence, for his homeland.

More than two million people visited the Potala last year, paying up to $27 to tour the sprawling structure. While guides offered details on the architecture and the palace’s storied history, the current Dalai Lama was conspicuously absent from the narrative, especially his recent pronouncement that his successor, or reincarnation, must be born “in the free world” – meaning outside China.

When questioned, monks and officials in Tibet parroted Beijing’s official party line: “The reincarnation of each Dalai Lama must be approved by the central government and the search must take place within China,” Gongga Zhaxi with the Potala Palace administration told me.

“That the reincarnation should be recognized by the central government has been settled for many years,” echoed La Ba, a senior monk at Jokhang Temple, the holiest in Tibetan Buddhism.

Their response – in line with Xi’s increasing emphasis on “Sinicizing religions” in the country – contrasted with a memorable and unexpected moment from my 2009 trip. At Jokhang Temple, a young monk told me that, as a faithful Tibetan Buddhist, he recognized and respected the Dalai Lama – before being whisked away by officials.

The Tibetan government-in-exile in India dismissed the stance on the Dalai Lama’s reincarnation proclaimed by the officially atheist Chinese government, stressing that “His Holiness is the only legitimate soul who can decide.”

The prospect of the process going smoothly seems to have all but vanished – after Beijing forced the disappearance in 1995 of a young boy recognized by the Dalai Lama as the new Panchen Lama, Tibet’s second-highest spiritual figure who traditionally plays a leading role in the search for the Dalai Lama’s reincarnation.

The boy, Gedhun Choekyi Nyima, who has never been seen since, is a college graduate who leads a normal life, according to a Chinese government spokesman in 2020. Despite denunciations by the Dalai Lama and his supporters, Beijing has installed its own Panchen Lama – triggering a three-decade-old dispute that continues to loom large, a sobering reminder of the stakes at play.

Our journey continued via Tibet’s only bullet train service, a marvel of engineering designed to withstand the harsh climate of the Tibetan Plateau. As the train sped through tunnels and over bridges at 10,000 feet above sea level, the landscape unfolded in breathtaking panoramas as we sat in carriages equipped with automated oxygen supply systems and special windows resistant to the area’s high UV levels.

Yet, this 435-kilometer rail link between Lhasa and the eastern Tibetan city of Nyingchi is more than just a mode of transportation – it is a symbol of China’s ambition to integrate this remote region with its distinct culture into the mainstream.

In Nyingchi, we visited a public boarding school – a hot topic as both the Dalai Lama and UN experts have voiced concerns over intensifying assimilation of Tibetans. About a million Tibetan children from rural areas have been reportedly sent to these government-run schools, where the language of instruction is allegedly almost exclusively Chinese, and living conditions are said to be cramped.

“All of our efforts have effectively safeguarded Tibetan children’s right to receive a high-quality education,” said Xu Zhitao, vice chairman of the Tibet Autonomous Region, when I asked about the controversy surrounding the schools.

Tourists take in the view of blooming peach blossoms against a backdrop of snow-capped peaks at Gala Village, near the city of Nyingchi, Tibet.
Eighth-grade students take a Tibetan-language class at Bayi District Middle School in Nyingchi, Tibet.
The only bullet train operating in Tibet at the railway station in Nyingchi, the final stop on the service originating from Lhasa, the Tibetan capital.
Tibetan yaks graze at a tourist farm outside the city of Nyingchi, Tibet.

At Bayi District Junior High, most of the 1,200 students were Tibetan – some we talked to said they took an equal number of lessons in their native tongue and Mandarin. A group of giggling Tibetan eighth-graders spoke proudly of their culture and traditions – but when asked about Tibetan Buddhism and the Dalai Lama, they became hesitant to answer and their voices trailed off. Young or old, people showed they knew the boundaries that could not be crossed.

With growing tensions between Beijing and Washington, China’s uneasy relations with its neighbor India – a key US partner – has made Tibet even more strategically important as the two Asian powers jostle for territory and influence in the far-flung area.

Controversial infrastructure projects and even bloody military clashes have marred their disputed border region in recent years.

But a more pressing concern for both Beijing and New Delhi is perhaps the inevitable passing of the 14th Dalai Lama, who turns 90 in July. If a scenario of “dueling Dalai Lamas” were to emerge as a result of China’s policy, it could shake the foundation of Tibetan religion and society – potentially unleashing fresh anger or even instability – in the high Himalayas.



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