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How to visit Rome for Pope Francis’ funeral and conclave

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CNN
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The faithful will be flocking to Rome to honor the death of Pope Francis, who died on April 21, with his funeral scheduled for Saturday April 26 at 10 a.m..

Given his relatively liberal policies and habit of phoning up members of the public for a chat, it’s possible that many non-Catholics will want to pay their respects, in addition to the nearly 1.4 billion Catholics around the world.

Foreign visitor numbers in Italy are already reaching all-time highs — and Rome is even fuller than usual this year because of the Vatican Jubilee, which will see an estimated more than 32 million pilgrims crowding in alongside regular visitors, who numbered 37.3 million last year.

That means that making your way to pay your respects may be difficult.

“We will see a huge media presence, much more than for Pope Benedict, since Francis is a current pope,” Mountain Butorac, who leads pilgrimages to Rome and tours of the Vatican as The Catholic Traveler, told CNN prior to the pope’s death. However, he added that he believes the crowd numbers will be similar to those for Benedict’s funeral: “I don’t expect numbers even close to [the funeral of] Pope John Paul II.” Around four million mourners flocked to Rome for the 2005 death of John Paul II.

The conclave — the meeting of cardinals to elect a new pope, usually two or three weeks after the previous pontiff’s death — will “be a big draw for people to come to Rome,” said Butorac, adding that unlike in the case of Benedict, time-strapped mourners may have to choose between traveling to Rome for the funeral or the conclave.

Pope Francis will be laid to rest in the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, two miles east of St. Peter's.

Pope Francis’ funeral is scheduled for Saturday April 26 at 10 a.m.

Before the funeral, there will be a period of lying in state. Francis’ coffin was transferred from his papal residence at the Casa Santa Marta to St. Peter’s Basilica early on Wednesday, April 23.

Following a ceremony inside the basilica, the public will be able to file past the coffin. The basilica will be open until midnight Wednesday, from 7 a.m. to midnight Thursday, and from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. Friday. At 8 p.m. there will be a ceremony for the closing of the coffin.

The funeral, at 10 a.m. on Saturday, will take place in St. Peter’s Square outside the basilica, and will be open to the public. Tickets are not required — but expect extremely long lines. There will be a final Commendation and Valediction, before Francis’ coffin is taken inside St. Peter’s Basilica for the remainder of the service.

His body will then be taken to Rome’s Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore, just over two miles east of St. Peter’s, for burial. The route has not yet been announced.

The religious elements of a pope’s funeral are laid out in the “Ordo Exsequiarum Romani Pontificis” (Latin for “Funeral Rites for the Roman Pontiff”). However, popes can still weigh in on plans, as Francis did when he approved an updated edition of the liturgical book in 2024. Francis wrote in his 2025 autobiography, “Hope,” that the proposed funeral was “excessive” and that he arranged to “lighten” it. He also chose his burial place, and will be the first pope in over a century to be laid to rest outside the Vatican. He regularly worshiped at Santa Maria Maggiore, and last made a surprise visit there on April 12.

Vatican rules stipulate that the pope must be buried between the fourth and sixth day after his death. The funeral then officially triggers nine days of mourning known as the “Novendiales,” which will see masses for Pope Francis held daily until May 4.

During this period, cardinals from across the world will be arriving in Rome, ready for the conclave, the date for which has not yet been announced.

“Every cardinal has a titular church here, and so usually two days before the conclave begins, they will have a Mass at their church,” said Butorac.

“The day before the conclave, there is a Mass in St. Peter’s Basilica. This is also open to the public. All the cardinals will be there. After this, they head into the Sistine Chapel, not to be seen in public again until the election of the pope.”

Cardinals will elect a new pope in the conclave held in the Sistine Chapel (pictured, the 2013 conclave).

The conclave to elect the next pope can start no sooner than 15 days after the previous pope’s death (which would be May 6), though the exact date will be determined by cardinals in the days ahead.

During the conclave, while the cardinals are secreted away in the Sistine Chapel, crowds gather in St. Peter’s Square to pray, hoping to be there when they see white smoke emerging from the Sistine Chapel, meaning that a new pope has been chosen.
Shortly afterwards, the newly elected pope will greet the crowds in the square from his balcony.

You don’t need a ticket to be in the square, but you will need to pass through security to access it, said Butorac.

For those who wish to witness it, on day one of the conclave, there is just one vote, in the evening. On the following days, there are four votes: two in the morning, two in the late afternoon. Twice a day, until a pope has been elected, the ballots will be burned. Black smoke emerging from the Sistine Chapel means no pope has been chosen. White means there is a new pope.

The pattern of voting continues each day with a break every five days until a new Bishop of Rome is selected. Once that happens, the ballots are immediately burned to produce the white smoke.

“The times are usually public, so people know when to be in the square,” said Butorac. “There are also no seats — so expect to stand for hours.” The voting can take hours, so be prepared to wait.

Rome has two international airports. Fiumicino, around 17 miles (27 kilometers) southwest of the city center, is Italy’s busiest airport and the hub for non-European airlines.
Ciampino, southeast of the city, is much smaller and closer to central Rome. It currently serves budget airlines with intra-European routes as well as two destinations in Morocco.

From Fiumicino, the Leonardo Express train departs every 15 minutes for Termini station in the city center. Alternatively, taxis charge a fixed rate of 55 euros ($58) to destinations within the city walls. Buses to Termini take 50 minutes and cost 9.90 euros ($10.40) return.

From Ciampino, a taxi costs a fixed 40 euros ($42), or buses to Termini take 40 minutes and cost 9.90 euros.

While flying into Rome is obviously direct, it’s worth considering flying into other major Italian airports, too. Rome’s Termini station is a hub on Italy’s high-speed railway line, meaning Milan is just over three hours away, and Naples around an hour.

Stay near the Spanish Steps and you'll have metro access to the Vatican.

Rome will be incredibly busy, so it makes sense to stay near St. Peter’s — though be aware that hotels are already heavily booked throughout 2025 because of the Jubilee. Vatican City sits on the west side of the Tiber, across the river from the historical center of Rome. The rione (district) of Prati is right above it, and is your best bet, accommodation-wise. Campo Marzio, in the historic center, is just across the water — anywhere near Campo de’ Fiori or Piazza Navona is also an easy walk to the Vatican.

Not finding anything? The nearest metro stop to the Vatican is at Ottaviano. Stay anywhere around Piazza di Spagna (the Spanish Steps) or the cheaper areas around Piazza della Repubblica and Termini train station, and you’ll be just a few minutes away by metro.

While many hotels appear to have hiked room rates over the next few days, there are some with availability at more reasonable prices. Checking Booking.com on Tuesday after the funeral and lying in state was announced, there were various two- and three-star hotels around Termini for around 500 euros ($574) for three nights from Wednesday to Saturday. This isn’t the time to go all out with a five star — the luxury Bvlgari hotel, for example, which is within walking distance from the Vatican, was selling rooms for the same dates (three nights) for 8,310 euros ($9,539).

If you’re looking for just one night and the pickings are looking slim, it could work out as more affordable to stay longer. For example, Hotel Lancelot, a family-owned three-star near the Colosseum, has implemented a three-day minimum stay during the lying-in-state and funeral period; however, it has not raised its reasonable rates. A single room for three nights is 420 euros ($482) as of Tuesday.

Vatican City is one of the most popular places to visit on a Rome trip, but this is a time when it shuts down its tourism operations and returns the buildings to what they were built for. The Sistine Chapel, for example, will hold the conclave, while St. Peter’s will be used for the lying in state. The museums will also be closed on Saturday 26 April, and all tours of the Vatican Gardens and the Necropolis of the Via Triumphalis are suspended, according to a statement on the Musei Vaticani website.

Instead, if you have time to sightsee, you’ll need to leave Vatican City — but there are still plenty of sites with papal links in Rome. A 10-minute walk from St. Peter’s Square is the colossal Castel Sant’Angelo, originally built as the mausoleum of the emperor Hadrian, and then used as a papal fortress. It was here that Pope Clement VII holed up during the Sack of Rome in 1527, eventually escaping the city.

If you’re here to pay respects to Francis, you’ll probably want to spend some time in church. Luckily, Rome’s basilicas are museums in their own right, so you’ll be sightseeing as you go. Prime amongst them are the city’s three other “papal basilicas” — which rank just below St. Peter’s for importance to the Catholic Church. San Giovanni in Laterano, Santa Maria Maggiore and San Paolo Fuori le Mura each have a “porta santa” (holy door), and a papal altar. The latter, at the end of the increasingly trendy Via Ostiense, is said to be the resting place of the apostle St. Paul.


Be aware that as the resting place of the pope, Santa Maria Maggiore will likely be subject to visiting restrictions around the date of the funeral. No information has been announced as of yet.

If you want to mix in some Michelangelo, there are several options in lieu of St. Peter’s.
His formidable Moses statue in San Pietro in Vincoli, a church in Monti, is a match for the Pietà in St. Peter’s — and in fact it was designed for the funerary monument of Pope Julius II, an ill-fated project that Michelangelo only completed after the death of Julius.

The spectacular church of Santa Maria degli Angeli is a ruined Roman bath that Michelangelo redesigned as a church — while his Risen Christ statue stands in Santa Maria Sopra Minerva, the church behind the Pantheon.

Two of the most spectacular papal sites are located outside the capital. Castel Gandolfo was the pope’s summer residence from 1596 until Francis wound it down, preferring to live more simply. Since 2016, you can visit the Palazzo Apostolico, or Palazzo Papale (papal palace) — as well as its beautiful gardens with spectacular views over Lake Albano. It’s currently open to the public daily (check the website for opening times) although it will be closed on Saturday 26 April as a sign of mourning.

In Viterbo, around 100 minutes by train north of Rome, is the Palazzo dei Papi, or Palace of the Popes. From 1257 to 1281, the Curia was moved here from Rome, and a suitably grand papal palace was built for the occasion — which is open to visitors today. The city carried on being a favorite escape for popes even when they were based back in Rome — one 15th century pontiff even added a bathhouse to take full advantage of Viterbo’s famous thermal waters.



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Pope Francis took vital steps on abuse, but it will be up to his successor to ensure reforms are enacted

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Rome
CNN
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Although he was a pontiff well-attuned to the concerns of ordinary Catholics, Pope Francis had a surprising blind spot when it came to the abuse crisis. He did not talk very much about the issue in his first months in the Vatican, and when he did, in 2014, appeared on the defensive, saying “no one else has done more” to root out abuse than the church.

His election took place at a time when the problem of sexual abuse of minors by clergy was well known, and after more scandals had emerged during the papacy of Benedict XVI. While important steps had been taken to address the abuse scandals during his predecessor’s tenure, there was still much more the church needed to do.

Survivors of church sexual abuse say the next pope needs to do more to tackle clergy guilty of abuse and hold bishops accountable when they mismanage cases.

The biggest mistake for Francis came when he initially refused to believe that a Chilean bishop, Juan Barros, had covered up for a notorious abuser. The pope then defended Barros publicly, dismissing the allegations as “slander.”

Later, the pope commissioned an investigation into the matter and made a heartfelt apology, admitting to survivors that he, too, “was part of the problem.” His willingness openly to admit failings and reverse earlier decisions was remarkable, given that historically popes have been believed infallible.

The turning point for Francis came when Chilean abuse survivors stayed with him for several days in April 2018 at his home in the Vatican, the Casa Santa Marta. He later took the dramatic step of ordering every bishop in Chile to offer their resignation, replacing a large section of the hierarchy.

Juan Carlos Cruz, a key whistleblower in Chile's most famous case of clerical sex abuse.

One of those survivors was Juan Carlos Cruz, who went on to advise the pope on anti-abuse measures.

“I think he has done more than any pope has ever done. But I think there is a lot more to be done,” Cruz told CNN in 2024. “What frustrates me is people in the curia (the church’s central administration) and bishops around the world who are not on the same page. What infuriates me is that survivors are walking this earth without justice… It’s like someone having cancer and no one doing anything.”

In a statement issued Monday after news of Francis’ death, the Survivors Network for those Abused by Priests (SNAP) called for whoever succeeds him to institute a “zero tolerance law” for sexual abuse.

The survivor advocacy group wants abusive clergy — and church leaders who’ve covered up their crimes — to be ejected from the ministry. It also wants more oversight of bishops.“ (The next pope) must use his authority to enact fundamental, institutional changes to end the systematic practice of sexual abuse and its concealment.”

Francis diagnosed clericalism, the wielding of power within the church by an unaccountable few, as being at the heart of the crisis. As he sought to get to grips with the problem, he held an unprecedented four-day summit on the issue at the Vatican, where survivors addressed cardinals and bishops and made a series of recommendations.

The 2019 gathering led to the pope issuing new norms for handling abuse, including procedures to hold bishops accountable for cover-ups, and the removal of secrecy obligations from abuse investigations.

He made it a legal obligation for Vatican officials to report abuse and ordered sweeping changes to the church’s canon law to recognize that vulnerable adults can be victims of abuse and that lay people in official positions can be held responsible.

“I would like to see his legacy and what he stood for continued,” Cruz added. He said the church had to find justice for survivors, to care for and support them and to seek to repair the damage that was done. “It’s frustrating that something so simple can be so complicated,” he said.

But Father Hans Zollner believes more consistency is needed when handling cases. Zollner, who runs a safeguarding institute in Rome, is considered one of the church’s most respected voices in calling for action on the abuse crisis. He resigned, however, from a papal commission tasked with child protection saying that more needed to be done on “responsibility, compliance, accountability and transparency.”

Speaking following Francis’ death, the German priest and psychologist told CNN said the late pope brought to attention the “systemic” issues involving abuse in the church and met with many survivors.

“He (Francis) made important reforms in a journey that is far from over, especially when it comes to the church’s need for consistency in engaging with victims, holding perpetrators to account and in applying the established norms and laws when dealing with abuse,” he said.

Sex abuse survivor Alessandro Battaglia, center, marches alongside other survivors and advocates in Rome in February 2019 as Pope Francis hosts a four-day summit on preventing clergy sexual abuse.

Francis had established the Holy See’s first pontifical commission for the protection of minors early on in his reign. But the commission, led for many years by a former Boston archbishop, Cardinal Sean O’Malley, struggled to find its place within the church’s central administration and to become truly effective.

Marie Collins, a survivor and safeguarding expert from Ireland who served on the commission in the early years, resigned in frustration at the slow pace of change.

Collins told CNN last year that Francis had “made some positive moves” and “started out well with the right intentions” but that the “old guard in the Vatican” had diluted those intentions and provided him with bad information. When it came to the abuse crisis in Chile, Francis admitted that he had made serious mistakes due to a “lack of truthful and balanced information.”

Collins also lamented the lack of transparency around the accountability of bishops and how new policies are being applied.

“There is change, there is advancement, but it’s been far too slow,” she said. “We are not getting the transparency we were promised.” Collins said she hoped that the next pope would bring “complete transparency” over the handling of abuse.

Pope Francis prays inside St. Mary's Pro Cathedral during his visit to Dublin in August 2018.

The crisis widened during the Francis pontificate to include not only minors but also the sexual abuse of nuns and “me too”-style instances of abuse. In 2019, Francis publicly acknowledged the problem of the sexual abuse of nuns by priests and bishops and also warned against psychological and spiritual abuses of sisters.

He showed, too, that he was willing to take action against groups within the Catholic Church where abuse had occurred, and brought in rules to try to prevent new groups being set up without proper oversight. He took time to meet victims and looked for ways to help them find justice.

The abuse crisis in the Catholic Church exposed deep cultural and systematic failings. Francis’ renewal efforts, including his convening of worldwide synod assemblies, sought to build more accountability and transparency.

Despite his mistakes, Francis took some vital steps in tackling the scourge of abuse.

But it will be up to his successor to ensure the necessary reforms are implemented as the Catholic Church continues to grapple with the most damaging scandal it has faced in centuries.



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Pedro Pascal’s premiere outfit shows support for trans women

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London
CNN
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Pedro Pascal has used a movie premiere in London to advocate for trans rights.

The Hollywood actor was photographed at the red carpet launch of “Thunderbolts*,” the latest offering from Marvel Studios, in a T-shirt proclaiming “Protect the dolls.”

The garment, designed by London-based American designer Conner Ives, has gone viral since Ives wore it at the finale of his Fall-Winter 2025 show in February. The slogan is seen as a show of solidarity with trans women, who are affectionately dubbed “dolls” by the LGBTQ community.

Pedro Pascal is pictured with his sister Lux at the global premiere of

Pascal’s appearance comes a week after Britain’s Supreme Court ruled that the legal definition of “woman” in equality legislation is determined by biological sex — excluding transgender women. While some celebrated the ruling, others within Britain’s trans community have described being “absolutely devastated” by the decision, which will have wide-ranging consequences for how equality laws are applied in the United Kingdom.

This is not the first time that Pascal has been spotted wearing the statement T-shirt. He was also pictured in it at his 50th birthday party in London earlier this month. Ives posted on Instagram a picture of Pascal in the T-shirt with trans DJ Honey Dijon, with the caption: “Thank you, to every person that has purchased a tee, and raised money for @translifeline. It has been a marathon getting these tees made but I’m so happy to be getting these out.”

The issue is more than just a fashion statement for the “Last of Us” star. Pascal’s younger sister Lux is a trans actress and model. In 2021, he posted on Instagram about an interview she did with a Chilean magazine about her transition. Sharing a picture of the front cover of Revista Ya, he wrote: “My sister, my heart, our Lux.”

Others who have helped raise the T-shirt’s profile have included Australian actor and singer-songwriter Troye Sivan, French designer Haider Ackermann and Nick Knight, founder of fashion film and photography website SHOWstudio.

Profits from the T-shirts, which sell for £75 ($100) online, benefit US charity Trans Lifeline. Ives website states: “Given the US Federal government’s current hostility towards trans people, support like this is needed now more than ever.”

Slogan T-shirts are a surefire way for celebrities to make headlines. Model and socialite Hayley Bieber, who is the daughter of actor Stephen Baldwin and is married to Justin Bieber, was pictured in 2023 wearing a tee with the slogan “nepo baby.”



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Cardinal Giovanni Angelo Becciu demands to be part of conclave to choose new pope

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Rome
CNN
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A cardinal convicted of financial crimes by the Vatican is claiming he can take part in the forthcoming conclave despite being listed as a “non-elector.”

Cardinal Giovanni Angelo Becciu, once one of the most powerful figures in the Vatican, was ordered by Pope Francis in 2020 to resign the “rights and privileges” of a cardinal after he became embroiled in a Vatican financial scandal.

The Sardinian cardinal previously held the position of “sostituto” (“substitute”) in the Holy See’s Secretariat of State – a papal chief of staff equivalent.

The role offered Becciu walk-in privileges to see the pope and he commanded huge authority across the church’s central government. He was later moved to a position running the Vatican’s saint-making department.

Becciu was convicted of embezzlement and fraud in 2023 and handed a five-and-a-half-year jail sentence. He is the first cardinal to be convicted by the Vatican’s criminal court.

But the cardinal, who has always maintained his innocence, launched an appeal that’s currently still under consideration. He’s allowed to continue to live in a Vatican apartment while this process is underway.

Cardinal Giovanni Angelo Becciu (left) pictured in St. Peter's Basilica at the Vatican, in June 2018.

While the Holy See press office has listed him as a “non-elector,” Becciu told a Sardinian newspaper on Tuesday that “there was no explicit will to exclude me from the conclave nor a request for my explicit renunciation in writing.”

The decision of his participation will likely be decided by the dean of the College of Cardinals, Giovanni Battista Re, and Cardinal Pietro Parolin, who will oversee the conclave proceedings inside the Sistine Chapel.

The investigation into Becciu centered on the Holy See’s disastrous investment in a London property that saw the church lose tens of millions of dollars.

During his papacy, Francis sought to clean up Vatican finances and changed the law to ensure that Becciu, as a cardinal, could be judged by a Vatican tribunal of judges.

Although Becciu lost his rights and privileges as a cardinal, he was never technically removed from the College of Cardinals. He is allowed to take part in the pre-conclave discussions.

Only cardinals under the age of 80 are allowed to vote in a papal election. As it currently stands, there are 135 eligible cardinals who will participate in conclave. Becciu is 76 and still eligible when it comes to his age.



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